There are places in Québec City where you can briefly forget the 21st century. Views, buildings, streets that feel of old in ways that are hard to come by in North America. At some level, history is a sense not unlike our senses of smell and sight. It may be more subtle, but sometimes you can feel history in and around your whole body, and you can wade through its thick and mysterious complexities.
At twilight in Québec, in the dim, warm light, you begin to travel backwards. And if you wait a little longer, until dark, the sound of tourists die down, and the cars and artificial lighting are absorbed by the ancient stones. Finally, the city is yours and the present is gone, but the river is still there like it always has been.